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Armoire Desk 1
copyright 2007

Armoire Computer Desk

with hinged doors

The Woodware Armoire Computer Desk is a large cabinet enclosing a computer desk. The doors can be closed completely hiding the computer. A built-in keyboard tray pulls out for ease of use. Armoires are large enough that a TV and other electronic equipment can be included with the computer to make an entertainment center.

An armoire (sounds like: arm-war) is simply a French word originally meaning arms cabinet but now simply a wardrobe. They are usually large closet-like pieces with two tall doors to hold clothes. Many examples are very formal and ornate, but some American versions have simple, clean lines.

Recently the armoire has been adapted to hold televisions and other electronic equipment either in the living room or bedroom. These usually feature doors to hide the equipment when not in use. The armoires can be as big and solid as needed yet still be consistent with the earlier styles.

The Woodware Armoire goes a little beyond this to provide everything needed for a roomy, low-stress computer desk. And it does hide everything away when not in use, even the printer.

We also have plans for a stand up version of this desk with the keyboard and monitor shelf set much higher. You can get those plans with the other stand-up desk designs at Six Stand-up Desks.

The exterior can be either in light or dark wood. The lines can be left simple or ornamentation can be added. You are free to suit your own tastes. You can even add an interior light.

You can build the Woodware Armoire with the equipment found in most home woodworking shops. Although it is large, it is simple to construct, and it even comes apart into two sections for ease in transporting. It is sized to just go though interior door ways.

If you are a person who wants to neatly store your computer away, then this is the desk especially for you. The following information and instructions will help you build the Armoire Desk. Consider them suggestions and not commands. Always keep in mind: this is your desk.

All the materials can be bought at your local home improvement store for about $550.00. It is 41.5 inches wide, 26.5 inches deep, and 72 inches tall on the outside. It requires 40 additional inches of wall space to open the doors and has an inside depth of 24.5 inches.

Rockler order link to first page
  1. Pictures of our Projects

    Pictures of this and most of our other projects can be seen in our Picture Gallery.

  2. Ordering the Sketches

    This design includes twelve detailed sketches that are critical to you successfully building this desk. Here is where to get all the ordering information.

    The plans for our major projects are brought to you on the Honor Plan. You may look at as many plans as you like, but when you start to build please pay for the plans you use. These small payments are critical to keeping this Web Site open.

  3. Desk Construction

    You can make this desk by:

    1. Downloading this text.
    2. Ordering the Sketches.
    3. Studying the information and locating materials.
    4. Purchasing materials.
    5. Cutting wooden pieces.
    6. Assembling the all the panels.
    7. Make back, bottom, and top
    8. Assembling the desk.
    9. Finishing all pieces
    10. Installing the computer.
    1. Discussion of Sketches

      After you download the sketches, these notes will help you understand them. The Armoire Desk is a large cabinet that can be separated into two pieces.

      1. Armoire Computer Desk (above)

        This front view shows the doors closed. Note that the cabinet is deep enough for even a large monitor. Also the computer sits in the base in the tower configuration but set an angle.

        These sketches show ornate hardware. You can choose simpler, antiqued hardware if you like.

      2. Armoire Computer Desk, Sketch #2, Open

        This sketch is very like Sketch #1 except that the doors are open and the keyboard tray is extended.

        Notice the unusual treatment of the hinges. The doors need to swing through 270 degrees. The hinge edge of the doors and the side panels are beveled at 45 degrees. This lets the door swing all the way open where they are held by hooks. This is an English cabinet making trick.

        The bow-tie stiffeners on the doors strengthen the doors and give them a much more solid feel and sound. The shelves in the top section may be adjusted up or down to suit your equipment. The legs leave an open space in the center for your shoe toes.

        The armoire is jointed just above the keyboard shelf. Removing a few screws allows you to take the unit apart for moving. The crown on the top is also easily removed.

      3. Armoire Computer Desk, Sketch #3, Top Views

        This sketch shows three top views. The fine dotted lines represent the edges of pieces that are hidden behind solid parts.

        The Upper Section, Top Removed is the upper section without the top or lower section. Note the space between the back of the shelves and the back. This allows the easy run of connectors and cables.

        The Lower Section, Upper Section Removed looks down on the keyboard shelf with is heavy duty drawer slide hardware. The keyboard shelf has two small strips screwed to it to prevent the keyboard from sliding off.

        The Base Only shows the 3/4-inch plywood base with its hardwood trim. The legs are attached below and the two large holes are for cables.

      4. Armoire Computer Desk, Sketch #4, Top with Crown

        The top is a piece of 3/4-inch plywood with hardwood trim just like the base.

        The crown is build up from a piece of crown molding, hardwood trim strips, and pieces of secondary wood. Good wood is used only where it will be seen.

        The assembly is attached to the top with a few screw blocks so that it can be removed. The armoire is simply too big to go through some door openings with the crown in place.

        The exact size of the crown pieces will depend on the crown molding you select.

      5. Armoire Computer Desk, Sketch #5, Panels

        This armoire is made from eight classic stile and rail panels. Each panel has a frame of hardwood and a loose insert of thin hardwood veneer plywood. This sketch shows the four types of panels.

        The Upper Door has the hinged edge beveled at 45 degrees, three hinges, and a bow-tie stiffener. The Lower Door is identical with the upper door except for its height. The doors are slightly shorter than their matching side panels.

        The optional thin edge strips may be attached to the inside of one door to block the crack.

        The Upper Side is basically the same as the door. It is slightly taller and significantly wider. It has two shelf support strips running up-and-down and screw blocks on three sides. The shelf supports have lines of screw pilot holes with 1-inch centers running down their middles.

        The Lower Side is similar to the upper side except for height. At its top is a wooden plate to mount the shelf slide hardware for the keyboard shelf. This plate also ties the upper and lower sections of the Armoire together.

        Areas that will be glued in final assembly are shown. If you finish the panels first, do not paint these areas. The circles shown behind the bow-ties and shelf supports are pieces of felt. The panel inserts must be left unglued so that they can float in their frames. This keeps the panel from warping with changes in temperature and humidity. The bow-tie and support pieces do not touch the inserts. Felt pads between the two pieces give the panels a solid feel and sound when rapped. The cardboard from the back of a writing pad will do, if no felt is available.

      6. Armoire Computer Desk, Sketch #6, Joint Options

        The joints at the four corners of each panel are the keys to the entire construction. There are many ways to make a good stile-and-rail joint. Each takes its own tools and skills. This sketch shows four different joints that you could use. I am sure you can do a good job on at least one of them.

        1. The Matched Router Bits joint requires a matched set of router bits and a router table. One bit cuts a fancy channel for the insert and the other cuts a matching shape in the rail end. These cuts match so well that nothing else is needed but a good glue. If you have this equipment, you will want to use this joint.
        2. The Mortise and Tenon is a classic. The rest of the sketches show this joint. The rails have short extensions (tenon) that fit into holes in the stiles (mortise). Be sure that the mortise is a little deeper than the tenon is long.

          The tenons are easy to cut on a table or radial arm saw. Note the small step to fill in the outer part of the insert channel.

          The mortise holes are a little more difficult. You may be able to get access to a special drill stand that does just this one job. You will need a 1/4-inch square bit.

          You can cut the mortises with a special chisel. These are now available from woodworker's mail order houses for about $12.00. You will need the 1/4-inch size. Be sure to leave the stiles two or more inches long so that you can cut away from the weak end. You can trim them later.

          This is the type of joint you will want if you want to make a classic armoire.

        3. The Half Lap joint has both the rail and stile extended the full length of the frame. Each is then cut half away with a dado blade and the two halves overlapped. They can then be secured with small screws or brads. If the arm saw is your favorite tool, you may like this joint.
        4. The L Bracket Let-In is the simplest to make. It has a very short tenon cut with a radial or table saw and a metal bracket. This is a very simple joint and requires not special tools.

          The bracket looks like a patch job unless it is let-in to the wood. This is quite easy with a knife and a sharp chisel. During glue-up, place the brackets exactly where you want them but screwed to the surface. After the glue is set, carefully outline the bracket with a knife (utility knives work well). Remove the bracket. Run the knife over the first cuts again then slop the knife in from the waste side for a third cut. This will leave a 'V' shaped channel with a straight edge on the good wood side. Then simply remove the waste wood to the depth of the bracket and replace the bracket.

      7. Armoire Computer Desk, Sketch #7, Stiles

        This sketch shows all the stiles or up-and-down pieces. All the material is 2.25 x .75 inch hardwood. The door stiles are a bit shorter than the side stiles. All are shown cut for a mortise and tenon joint.

        The side stiles have 3/4 x 3/4 hardwood strips screwed and glued to them. These allow all the screws to be run from the inside so that none show from the outside. They should be made from the same wood as the stiles.

      8. Armoire Computer Desk, Sketch #8, Rails

        This sketch shows the rails and all other cross pieces. There are only two types of rails, door and side. Only the critical inside dimension is given. Some extra length will be needed for the joints but the amount depends on the joint you choose.

        The side trim is 1 1/4-inch strips of nice wood with a short L at one end. A small biscuit would work well for this joint. This assembly is screwed to both the lower section rail and to the slide mount piece.

        The slide mount mounts the keyboard hardware and ties the two pieces of the armoire together. It should be made of the same wood as the stiles.

        The Cross pieces tie the two sides of the door opening together. One goes at the bottom, one just under the keyboard shelf, and one at the top. One edge should be well rounded. They are attached to the side stiles with screw blocks that are a little wider than the cross pieces. Their screws will not show.

        The optional Door Ornament can be made from the same plywood as the insert or from 1/4-inch thick hardwood stock. It is just there for the show.

      9. Armoire Computer Desk, Sketch #9,Inserts

        This sketch shows the panel inserts. They may be made for 1/4-inch plywood with a hardwood veneer. The eight inserts could be cut from six 24 x 48 inch pieces.

      10. Armoire Computer Desk, Sketch #10, Back

        This sketch shows the 3/4-inch fur plywood back. The joint piece can also be made from plywood. The two screw blocks should be regular wood. Avoid painting the glue areas.

      11. Armoire Computer Table, Sketch #11, Shelves

        Sketch #11 shows the two types of shelves. The two top shelves are made from 3/4-inch fur plywood with a hardwood strip on the front. The mounting board are screwed to the ends after the shelf is fit checked in the assembled cabinet. The small rail at the back keeps things from being pushed off.

        You can adjust the width of the shelves to suit your equipment. Leave room at the back to pass the cables.

        The keyboard shelf is made from solid hardwood. The two small strips keep the keyboard from sliding off when the shelf is moved. The ends of the shelf are cut away for the slide hardware and a small block is added to the bottom. Do not cut this shelf to its final length until the cabinet is assembled and you can fit-check the shelf with its hardware.

      12. Armoire Computer Table, Sketch #12, Feet

        This sketch shows the feet pieces and assembly. The exact shape of the foot is up to you. Make it look nice but keep the center clear for the user's feet. The back legs can be simple blocks with a simple butt joint. The front two leg pieces may be kicked by the user, so make them strong.

        If the desk is to be used by a tall person, you may want to increase the height of the legs by 1/2 or even 1-inch.

        Also shown are corner braces. The six for the front opening have a nice curve to match the legs. These braces add a lot of strength to the armoire. This is particularly important when it has been taken apart for movement.

      Rockler order link to first page
    2. Materials

      The Armoire is made of hardwood panels made of rails and styles with panels of thin hardwood-laminate plywood. The rest of the exterior is made of the same hardwood.

      The back, interior liner, and shelves are made of 3/4-inch plywood with matching hardwood trim. The parts are assembled with glue, wood screws, and finishing nails.

      A classical armoire would be done in a rich hardwood like walnut or mahogany or even an exotic tropical wood like rosewood. These woods would require fancy fixtures in antiqued brass. The cost of the material will be high but the value of the finished piece will be even higher.

      An American version can legitimately be built in less showy woods (a wardrobe). These woods include oak, ash, hickory, and even pine. A few small, tight knots add interest but you cannot cut the rails and stiles from knotty wood. This style should have steel or iron hardware preferably antiqued.

      The cost estimate below is for red oak with fancy hardware but no lamp. You could do an American version for a hundred dollars less or an exotic version for several hundred more.

      1. Wood:
        • Stiles ---- 16 board feet

        • Sketch #7 -- 2.25 inches by 66 running feet
        • Rails ---- 6.5 board feet

        • Sketch #8 -- 2.25 inches by 34 running feet
        • Trim ---- 3 board feet

        • Sketch #8 -- 1.25 inches by 16 running feet
          Sketch #8 -- 3 inches by 48 running feet
        • Keyboard Tray $amp; Shelves ------- 5 board feet

        • Sketch #11 -- 1 inches by 15 running feet
          Sketch #11 -- 2.25 inches by 5.5 running feet
          Sketch #11 -- 11.5 inches by 3 running feet
        • Feet & Blocks ------ 3 board feet

        • Sketch #12 -- 3 inches by 5 running feet
          Sketch #12 -- 1.5 inches by 3.5 running feet
        • Exterior trim ------- 2 board feet

        • Sketch #4 -- 1.25 inches by 15.5 running feet

        Example 35.5 bf @ 5.50 /bf Red Oak ------- Subtotal: $195.00

        • Top molding --------- 7 linear feet ------- $10.00


        • 1/4-inch Hardwood veneer-- 6 - 24 x 48 inch ----- $48.00
        • 3/4-inch plywood, fur, B/C --- 2 ---------------- $44.00

        Wood Subtotal: $339.00

      2. Hardware
        • Ornate Pulls ----------- 4 ------------ $32.00
        • Cabin hooks ------------ 4 ------------ 30.00
        • Brass catches ---------- 4 ------------ 25.00
        • Brass hinges ----------- 5 pair ------- 23.00
        • Ornamental subtotal $110.00

        • Heavy duty drawer guide ----- 1 pair --- 18.00
        • Rockler order link to first page


        • #8 x 1.25 flat head ---- Box of 100 ---- 3.00
        • #8 x 1.5 round head ----- 16 ----------- 1.00
        • 6 p finishing nails ----- 1 box -------- 2.00
        • 3/4 'L' bracket --------- 2 ------------ 2.00
        • Feet -------------------- 4 ------------ 4.00
        • Felt -------------------- 3 sq. ft. ---- 4.00
        • Glue -------------------- 1 pint ------- 4.00

        • Construction Hardware Subtotal: $ 39.00

      3. Finish:
        • Stain -------------------- 1 Quart ----- $ 9.00
        • Shellac ------------------ 1 pint ------ 6.00
        • Shellac thinner ---------- 1 pint ------ 4.00
        • Tong Oil ----------------- 2 16 oz. ---- 14.00
        • Enamel Paint, oil based -- 1 Quart ----- $ 14.00

        Finish Subtotal: $39.00

      4. Omissions and Contingencies (~11%)( Tax, sand paper, etc.) $57
      5. Estimate Total Cost $550.00

      This is only an estimate (made in the fall of 1996). The price may vary in your area. Getting a good price on the hardwood and hardwood veneer plywood is critical to keeping the price down. You can choose plain hardware and even antique plain pieces yourself. Adding a pair of lamps for the top would be a really nice touch.

    3. Tools

      This desk was designed so that it could be build by an amateur woodworker with a modest home shop. It requires the use of a radial-arm or table saw and common hand tools.

      Rockler order link to first page
    4. Fabrication Notes

      This is not intended to be a detailed step-by-step construction guide but rather a number of points to consider. It is your desk and you can build it to suit your likes.

      1. Options

        Look over the desk drawing as decide what you are going to do:

        1. Hinges -- If the hinges you choose do not work exactly like the ones in the drawing, the width of the front with the doors closed may be effected. This is easily corrected by adjusting the width of the back. You should obtain your hinges before building the back, top, and bottom. E-mail us if you need farther discussion on this.
        2. Type of Panels -- The panels with plywood inserts shown are not very exciting. If you have the capability and money, you will want to make more beautiful ones from solid hardwood.
        3. Type of Panel Joint -- You may want to make up examples of several of the panel joints to decide the one you like best.
        4. Ornamentation for Doors -- The door are shown with a simple add-on. You may wish to do something much more interesting.
      2. Rails and Styles

        The rails and stiles are the keys to this project. You can make them as simple boards with a channel cut with a table saw or make you can make fancy ones, if you have the tools.

        Stile and rail panels have been a mainstay of cabinet making for many years. There is a large selection of tools specifically for this purpose. You can use (1) a table or radial arm saw with a dado cutter, (2) a special pair of router blades and a router table, or (3) antique speciality planes. Use what you have.

        Sketch #6 shows four possible joints. Choose the one that suits your tools and skills. Some of the joint styles require extra length for the rail pieces.

        The sketches show a simple ornamental arch for the top of the doors. As shown, it is a simple add-on and is not part of the structure. If you have the proper tools you may want to expand the top rail and cut a curved grove. This approach would be far superior to the tacked on piece.

        The channel should be a loose fit to your insert material and have a little extra depth. In the finished panel the insert should be able to move slightly as the frame expands and contracts. This saves the joints.

        One side of the hinge-side stiles is beveled at 45 degrees. This allows the hinges to swing through 270 degrees so the door can fold flat back to the side. Note that the bevel does not continue all the way to the edge but stops at least 1/8-inch short. This distance should be 1/2 the thickness of the hinge on its pin side.

      3. Inserts

        The inserts shown are made of thin plywood. Classically, these inserts would be made of thin hardwood. This requires the tools to cut hardwood into thin boards (resaw) and to resurface the planks. You then edge glue the planks and thin the panel edge all around. If you have these tools available, you will want to consider this approach. It is worth some extra time and money.

        The sketches show an add-on arch at the top of the doors. These arches are pieces of either 1/4-inch plywood or hardwood cut to shape. They are glued to the panel inserts. The inserts then have to be fixed with glue and small brads at the top. Be sure that the insert can still expand and contract at the bottom.

        You can a decorative inlay to the door panels. These inlays are available at reasonable prices from mail order houses as a unit glued to a backing.

        You simply tape the inlay to the panel and very carefully go around it with a sharp knife. You set the inlay aside and rescore the knife line more deeply. Then make a third pass with the knife, cutting a grove out of the veneer you wish to remove. You then carefully cut away the waste wood with a sharp chisel. The plywood glue dulls the chisel quickly so you will need to touch it up often. You then glue the inlay in the recess.

        Practice this procedure on scrap plywood.

      4. Panel Assembly

        You may want to make the rails and stiles up with sharp edges, assemble the frames dry without the inserts, and round off the inside edges. The round off can be done with a router or by hand. This produces a dressed edge and tight, closed joints.

        On assembly be sure that the joints are tight, the frame is square, and that the insert is not glued in place.

        The screw blocks and stiffeners are best added to the panels during the trial assembly later.

      5. Base and Top

        The base and top are pieces of 3/4-inch plywood with 1 1/4-inch strips of hardwood around three sides. The hardwood strips are best attached with biscuits but use a wooden spline or just nails and glue. If you use nails, be sure to predrill the holes.

        The base gets the feet on its underside and the top gets the crown on its top.

      6. Keyboard shelf

        The keyboard shelf should be made of several boards edged together rather than one board. You should wait to trim it to length until the cabinet is assembled and the drawer guide hardware is installed.

        The guide hardware will require notches in the end of the shelf and end blocks for the hardware. The exact measurements will depend on your drawer guide.

        You will need a heavy-duty drawer guide pair with steel ball bearings and very few plastic parts.

      7. Shelves

        The shelves are pieces of 3/4-inch plywood with wood strips on the front and a stop block at the rear. They are attached to the side panels with four screws on each end.

      8. Crown

        The crown is made up of pieces of molding, strips of good wood, and pieces of secondary wood. You can use strips of the plywood for secondary wood. The exact dimensions will depend on the molding you choose.

        You may build up a fancy molding out of several smaller ones. If you cannot get or make the molding match your hardwood, you can consider painted clear pine molding. The molding can be a striking color accent.

        You may find it easer to assemble the crown in one long piece and miter the whole thing into three pieces. Be careful not to put fasteners in the wrong place.

        The entire crown may have to be removed to move the armoire through a door way. It is attached to the top with a few screw blocks and no glue. 'L' brackets are also shown to strengthen it when it is off.

      9. Fitting Doors

        It is easiest to mount the doors before the cabinet is full assembled. You can clamp matched pairs of door and side panel together.

        Match up the point edge of the bevels and center the door long ways. The door should be shorter than the side panel. It helps if the two are held apart slightly with pieces of thin cardboard between them. This will insure that the doors will open fully later.

        Carefully mark and chisel out wood from the door and panel.

        It is easiest to fit the hinges first up-side-down with the hinge pin up. Later, you can unclamp the door and remove a small amount of additional wood for the hinge pin.

      10. Dry Assembly

        After you have made the panels and other parts, mounted the doors, and cut the back, it is time to assemble the entire armoire without glue. You can make any fit adjustments at this time while still being able to back up.

        Start at the bottom and work up. Install the back and side panels (with doors) to the base. Use a Drill Mate drill and wood screws through the screw blocks.

        Install the lower cross piece and the boards for the slide hardware. The second cross piece can now be installed. It must be just low enough for the slide hardware to clear.

        The blocks that go on the side panels near the hinges should be set back from the door about 1/16-inch. If you put them right up against the door, they may later bind.

        The corner braces shown in Sketch #12 help square the openings and stiffen the unit when it is apart in two pieces.

        When you have the bottom section the way you want it, build the top unit right on it. Fit the shelves last.

      11. Mount Hardware

        Fit the latches, door pulls, and hooks. A wide selection this hardware is available from mail order houses.

        Fit the hardware. You will need to make small changes to the screw blocks around the openings to suit your hardware.

      12. Disassemble

        Remove the hardware and bag it. As you remove the wooden parts, mark the glue areas. These are shown on sketches #5 and #11. Mark all the parts in pencil on hidden areas. Give the location and the direction of the front.

        Sand all parts.

      Rockler order link to first page
    5. Finish

      You may finish your desk any way you like. I recommend: oil stain, a spit coat of shellac, and many coats of tung oil finish for the exterior. I would use a sealer and oil-based paint for the interior.

      You can finish the panels, inside and out, before final assembly if you like. Mask off the few areas that will be glued on reassembly.

      1. Staining

        Work with the stain color that you have chosen. Practice on a piece of scrap wood (solid and plywood). Do not start on the panels until you are satisfied. Do not hesitate to write off an $8 can of stain and go purchase another of a different color.

        The outside of the back plywood needs a simple stain and sealer treatment.

      2. Spit Coat

        A spit coat made of one part 3-pound shellac to five parts shellac thinner makes a good wood sealer.

        If the plywood inserts and the hardwood take the stain differently, you can apply a spit coat to only the one that stains darkest (usually the plywood). This will limit the stain penetration to more closely match the finishes. This also works for end grain.

        A spit coat can also be used between applications of stain and as a general sealer after staining.

      3. Exterior Finish

        I like a modern tung oil finish such as:

        Formby Tung Oil Finish

        These are applied with a cloth pad rather than a brush. This desk will take at least two 16 oz. bottles; three will be better. Follow the instructions on the bottle carefully and apply a liberal number of applications on all work areas. The toughest finish is needed on the keyboard shelf directly in front of the user.

      4. Interior Paint

        The user needs to face a bright, but non-glare, color around the monitor. Painting the interior adds enormously to the enjoyment of this piece. The color can be off-white, or light gray, or even a robin's egg blue. Something restful to the eyes is best.

        The interior should be sealed and painted. You may need two color coats. The front edges of the upper shelves should be taped off and finished like the exterior. The entire keyboard shelf is easily removed and finished like

    6. Completion

      All that is left is to reassemble the desk, and install the computer cables.

      1. Reassembly

        Do not glue the top and bottom sections together. Also do not glue on the crown. You will probably need to touch up the inside paint after reassembly.

      2. Cabling

        Detailed cabling instructions and plans for a remote power switch are given in our Web page under Freebies. Make up several cable tie mounts and be ready with mounting screws and tie wraps. The remote power switch is optional but is really helps the desk user.

        Determine which leg will be closest to the wall outlet. Screw the remote switch box and surge suppressor to the inside back close to that leg cable hole. Route the switch cable up to the monitor shelf.

        Install a generous number of cable tie mounts to the back where cables will run. You may also need some at the back of the two upper shelves.

        Dress the cables neatly base and table legs using tie wraps. Do not pull the tie wraps too tightly, the cable should be able to slide back-and-forth a little. Trim off all the tie wrap ends. Black tie wraps look best and last longest.

Rockler order link to first page


Thanks again for using a Woodware Computer Furniture Plans. We very much want to know how you are getting along with your project and would be happy to answer any questions by email.

If you send us a picture of your finished desk, we would be happy to put it on our web page. We need pictures of desk with real people standing beside them.

Don't forget to order the sketches.

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