This project is to build a British Police Box Computer Desk designed after the TARDIS from the "Dr. Who" television series. We now have two versions of the plans, one in SI (metric) and one in British (now only used in American).
This desk design has been scaled from drawings of the prop used on the first series of "Dr. Who". It has been reduced in height so that it can be set up in a room with an 8 foot ceiling and there is no base at all. The depth is also cut off at about the 5/8 mark to make the desk shallow enough to be moved through most interior doors. When set up, it looks as if the TARDIS is embedded in a wall. It is up to the builder to work up the finish to match whatever year of the series he or she likes most. This desk is, of course, a blue box.
This desk feature include a pullout keyboard shelf and a fixed shelf for the monitor. These shelves can be at any height the builder likes. The largest monitor that the desk could accommodate would be about 34 inches wide. There are also two higher shelves for books and speakers. In addition to the top light there are three lighted signs that can be dimer controlled.
This is a rather large and heavy desk. It is also a rather expensive desk with the materials list coming in at about $700.00. It would be difficult to ship or even to move very often. The electrics are easy to remove and the roof does comes off as a subassembly, so it could be hauled in a light truck or van if necessary. It also is a significantly difficult woodworking project that is not really suitable as a first project and will require access to a modest wood shop to build.
You can also find lots of help in building your TARDIS at other Web sites like TARDIS Builders. Goggling "TARDIS" produces no end of links.
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This design includes sixteen detailed sheets that are critical to you successfully building this desk. Here is where to get all the ordering information. Both the SI (metric) and American versions will be provided.
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You can make this desk by:
After you download the sketches, these notes will help you understand them. This discussion is based on the American version and the SI (metric) version may differ slightly, but both have the same sheet numbers. Over all, The British Police Box Desk is a large cabinet that can be built as seven subassemblies.
This front view shows the doors closed. Note that the cabinet is wide enough for even a large monitor. Also the computer sits in the base in the tower configuration.
The desk has two doors that open and a lighted sign on the front.
This Sheet shows the desk from the side with the doors are open and the keyboard tray is extended.
Notice that this desk is normally used pushed hard against the wall. You will have to make a cut-out at the base for your baseboard and a notch for an electric cord.
The lighted sign is the same as on the front except that it too is chopped off. The maximum depth you have for your computer is about 25 inches (630 mm).
This Sheet shows a cross-section of the desk just below the keyboard shelf and a top, front, and half cross-section of the roof.
The Roof Subassembly is build as an independent unit to aid moving and setting up.
The Roof is made up of a two tear wooden frame and three plywood panels. The top lamp mounts up through a hole in the roof to make set up easy.
The sloping roof pieces will require some skill to fit on assembly.
The front is made from two wooden columns with only a couple cross supports. Each column is made from three pieces of wood, two of which have a cove routed along the edge. Square blocks and corner blocks help strengthen the columns.
The two cross pieces frame an opening for the front lighted sign. The three step decoration on the top element is optional and does not appear in some years. A shipping brace is shown because the front frame is not very strong until the main box is assembled.
The assembled side panels will slip into the notches behind the side piece of the columns.
The assembled side panel is shown along with its parts. To get the desk to sit flat against the wall, you will need to make a cardboard template of the baseboard in your house and cut it out of the upright. A notch is also shown for a power cable.
Most of the sicks have a grove along the edge for the plywood panel. The ends of many of the sticks also have a tongue cut the same width. The measurements shown allow for the tongues.
This Sheet shows the construction of the two doors. They feature rails and styles with simple plywood panels.
There is also one upright piece to cover the gap between the doors.
Do not glue up the doors until the windows are available as the windows drop into the groves exactly like a panel.
This Sheet shows the four fixed shelves. Each is supported with a wooden back and two side pieces. Each has two holes in the back corners for computer cables.
The front edge of the plywood will show. I suggest you cover these edges with strips of wood about 0.5 inch wide (10 mm). These can be held on with glue and finishing nails.
The hole size should accommodate your largest plug. The width of the two top shelves can be adjusted to suit your stuff.
This Sheet shows the keyboard shelf assembly. Note that a portions of the shelf can be pulled forward on heavy-duty drawer guides.
The section of this shelf that pulls forward must fit between the two open doors. This includes part of the drawer guides. You may want to delay cutting out this part until the box is complete. Some fitting may be needed.
The drawing includes five of the new heavy-duty magnetic latches. Two keep the two doors closed at the front. Two more keep the doors in place when the doors are open and the keyboard tray is pulled out. One last one at the back provides a detent when the keyboard shelf is pushed all the way in.
This Sheet shows the window. Four windows are required.
Here the SI (metric) and the American version differ. The SI Version has the more complex window version with six separate panes. The American version shows the simple approach which has one larger pane with wooden dividers glued to it inside and out. Clearly this is much easier and faster to make.
In both cases the outside frame has a complex cross section that will have to be routed. The finished window will have an outer tongue that will fit into exactly the same grove in the door frame.
Most people will want to frost the panes in the windows as they are frosted in the TV series. For plastic, this can be done by sanding the surface.
You many want to paint the window frame before installing the plastic.
This sheet shows the Front Lighted Sign and the two side lighted signs. Each consist of a wooden front piece, a plywood box, a plastic sheet with signage, and a support stick for an LED light strip.
The side signs are a pair and are the same as the front sign except that they are copped off. All will have to be fitted to their openings.
This Sheet shows the layout of the two back sections on a piece of thick plywood. Sheet material other than plywood may be used if it paints well.
If you want to make the desk lighter you could use 5/8" or even 1/2" stock. If you do this then the slots in the edges of the side pieces will have to be adjusted to match.
The note with the circled numbers 1, 2, and 3, show where accommodations for the different size plywood are required on other sheets.
Note the First Cut and the Second Cut notation. These cuts can be made at the wood supplier to make it easier to get the piece home.
This Sheet shows the layout of the shelves on a medium piece of plywood.
If you are adding strips of wood to the exposed edge of the plywood, you may need to subtract their thickness from the plywood dimensions shown.
Note the First Cut and the Second Cut notation. These cuts can be made at the wood supplier to make it easier to get the piece home.
This Sheet shows the layout of the roof panels and the sign boxes on a medium piece of plywood.
Cut the roof pieces a little large so you can fit them.
Note the First Cut and the Second Cut notation. These cuts can be made at the wood supplier to make it easier to get the piece home.
This Sheet shows the layout of all the panels on a thin plywood.
Whatever thickness of plywood you use, the groves in the side and door piece must match it.
Note the First Cut and the Second Cut notation. These cuts can be made at the wood supplier to make it easier to get the piece home.
This sheet in a sperate file shows the layout of the electrical system for this desk.
The British Police Box Desk is to be painted. The wooden parts are made from clear pine or popular which will take paint well.
The back, shelves, roof, and panels are made from sheet goods that also paint well. These are described as plywood but other more modern materials could be used. Many of these materials paint very well but do not take screws as well as plywood. This can be handled by simply adding more glue blocks inside the joints.
The exact paint scheme varied from year to year in the TV series but they all were painted and always blue.
The cost estimate below is for the American Version as I do not have the European prices available.
Example 70 bf @ 4.50 /bft Clear Pine ------- Subtotal: $310.00
Wood Subtotal: $110.00
Hardware subtotal $77.00
Electrical subtotal $100.00
Construction Hardware Subtotal: $ 14.00
Finish Subtotal: $28.00
This is only an estimate (made in the winter of 2014). The price may vary in your area. Getting a good price on the wood and plywood is critical to keeping the price down.
This desk was designed so that it could be build by an amateur woodworker of moderate skill with a modest home shop. It requires the use of a radial-arm or table saw, a router, and common hand tools.
The major construction challanges relate to:
There tasks are simply going to require hand fitting.
This discussion is not intended to be a detailed step-by-step construction guide but rather a number of points to consider. It is your desk and you can build it to suit your likes.
Look over the desk drawing as decide what you are going to do:
Sheet 05 shows the front frame. Note the two side column and only two cross pieces at the top. Note the opening at the top for the lighted sign.
The columns are made from two wide pieces of wood with coves routed along three sides. The long joint is reinforced with a few short corner glue blocks.
The columns are also squared up with four square blocks each. These blocks should not be placed where the shelves will go. The block at the top should be solid and flush with the top end. The block at the bottom should be above the Bottom Shelf support. The blocks should define a notch that the side panels can slide into.
Groves appear in only the top 10 inches of the door frame pieces.
The drawing shows the top cross piece with a stair step look. This feature appears in some seasons but not in others.
This assembly would be fragile so an extra shipping brace is shown screwed, but not glued, at the bottom.
Sheet 06 shows the side panel construction. It is a wooden frame of rails and styles. The open areas are filled in with thing sheet stock panels.
The dimensions shown include an 1/2" allowance for end tongues on some of the pieces.
The back piece has a grove routed out for the back that is 3/8 inch deep and the thickness of the back material.
The fill panels are not normally glued in but just slide into the groves. The windows are designed to have just such a side groove. Do not glue the sides together until you have a complete window to install.
The lower end of the back board is notched to fit the room base board. A notch for a power cable is also shown.
The finished side panel must slide into the back of the column on the front panel.
The doors are very straight forward rails and styles construction. Most people make the side styles a little long so they can trim the completed door to the precise height needed. The sides can be planed a little for fitting.
The drawing shows a center piece to cove the crack between the doors. You can also add similar strips across the top and sides of the door frame. The side pieces must have a gap for the keyboard shelf.
Do not glue in the top rail until you have a complete window to slide in.
Sheet 10 shows the simple window construction on the American plans. A window consist of four routed edge pieces, six divider sticks, and a pane of sheet plastic. A more complex window design is available in the SI (metric) drawings.
The frames are build so that they will slide into the groves in the doors and sides.
The plastic sheet may be made translucent by working it with a palm sander.
The cross pieces are notched to make an "H" shape and glued to both side of the pain with super glue.
You will need to complete your windows, and paint them if the color contracts, before completing the glue up of the sides and doors where they are installed.
The back is simply a heavy piece of sheet material and is shown in Sheet 12. The First Cut and Second Cut can be made at the lumber store if that helps you get the material home.
The dimensions shown takes into account the 3/8" routed groves in the two side pieces.
You may need to shorten the back piece so so that it does not interfere with the baseboards in your house. You may also wish to cut out a hole in the back if the desk will be sitting directly in front of wall outlets.
If the sheet material you have chosen does not take screws well, you can reinforce the side joints with six screw blocks. Be sure these are not located where you wish to put the shelves. These blocks will be important if you do not wish to glue the sides to the back.
Sheet 08 shows the fixed shelves.
You may wish to adjust the depth of the selves to suit your specific equipment. The Book Shelf is best if it does not block the window.
All the selves are 1/2 inch pieces of sheet material with one by two supports on three sides. I would cover the front of the shelves with a strip of solid wood to cover the plywood edge.
The holes at the back corners of the shelves are for electronic cables. The size of the hole needed depends on your cables.
Now is a good time to test assemble the box. Try attaching the sides to the back and then the front to the sides. Install the bottom and top shelves to help make the box sturdy.
Fit the doors or at least measure the exact width of the door opening. You will need this measurement for the Keyboard Shelf.
Make measurements of the electric cable lengths you need.
Check the locations you want for each of the shelves to be sure that there are no obstructions.
Sheet 09 shows the Keyboard Shelf. It is in four plywood pieces, three fixed and one moving.
The two side and one back piece are fixed and are much like a fixed shelf with a cut-out.
The moving part mounts with a heavy-duty drawer guide. You may need to make fitting adjustments for your specific guide but most are about 0.5 inch thick and 2.0 inches wide. The matching side pieces for the side selves and the pullout shelf must be wide enough to mount this drawer guide. These mounts must also be slightly inside the moveable shelf sides so that every part of the drawer guide will miss the open doors.
The front and back edges of the moveable shelf section are covered with pieces of 0.5 inch by 0.75 inch wood to form a small lip on the top both front and back. This keeps pins and things from falling off when the shelve is moved.
The depth of the completed Keyboard Shelf must be exactly the same as the distance from the back to the closed doors. This may take some fitting.
Sheets 03 and 04 show the roof subassembly and there is more information on Sheet 14 but the roof is simply going to take quite a lot of hand fitting.
The roof consist of two steps of wood trim and three pieces of plywood set at a low angle. Some fitting is going to be needed.
The first step has a three sticks with routed corner blocks to complement the main columns.
The back for both steps is cut from scrap of the 0.75" stock, see Sheet 12.
The second step is again three sticks which over lap the first step but are cut with a 8 degree slope at the top.
The three roof pieces are cut at somewhat odd angles as shown in Sheet 14 but these pieces will take some fitting. I would also cover the outside edges with 0.5 inch by 0.5 inch wood to hide the plywood edge and this too will take some fitting.
The very top is a piece of wood with the edge grooved to cover the plywood edges on all four sides. The hole in the middle allows the top lamp to be installed up from inside the box and must be custom cut for your lamp.
Two strips of wood are shown to reinforce the roof plywood joints. These will have to be planed to fit.
Four strips of wood are shown sticking down so that they will overlap the top of the box itself. These will center the roof on the box and let you attach the roof with a few screws so it can later be removed if needs be.
Sheet 11 shows the illuminated sign for the side of the box. Again considerable hand fitting will be needed.
The face of the sign is a wooden piece with a large opening with a routed lip to hold the plastic pane. The back of the sign is a box made from medium 0.5 inch plywood. A strip of wood runs across the back to support a strip of LED lights.
The plastic sheet is again sanded to be slightly translucent. The lettering is done on a computer and printed to thin plastic sheets once used for projecting slides and glued to the inside at a few points along the top.
The side signs are the same as the front sign except that they are cut off. The back section has to cut to suit the back board of the side panel and a piece of fill wood will be needed.
Each of the signs will have to be hand fitted to its opening.
The electrical parts are shown in a sperate file drawing. They consist of two outlet boxes, one switch box, one top lamp and box, three LED lighting strips, and a power strip.
It is best to mount each of the four boxes to a small piece of thin plywood so that you can then screw the plywood to the inside of the big blue box. This lets you later remove the entire wiring without disturbing any of the connections or having to unscrew any of the box lids. The box for the top lamp also needs to be mounted to a piece of plywood so that it can be installed up from the inside.
Stuff newspaper in all the electrical boxes and paint them and their plywood to match the inside of the computer desk.
The LED light strips are of the type used to provide light up under a kitchen cabinet. The ones I bought had only short connecting cables so I had to cut these short cables and install a piece of extension wire. Be very sure not to get the wires crossed up!
The Dimmer Switch lets you do special effects like the TARDIS taking off.
The Power Strip should have internal spike suppression and is also mounted to a somewhat larger piece of thin plywood. I used thermal glue and tie wraps. This plywood rectangle has holes along the top to screw it up under the Keyboard Shelf and another line of holes along the bottom for tie wraps. If you make up a few one foot extension cords for your plug-in transformers, you can tie write them here and they will not hog the power strip and later fall out.
A number of small wooden strips with a notch on the bottom and one or two screw holes at the ends will help you place tie wraps to route the cables. You can screw these to the box and then tie wrap to cables to them.
It is now time to try fit all the parts. Make sure the windows all fit. Reattach the sides to the back and then to the front. Install the fixed shelves. Install the doors. Install the Keyboard Shelf. Set the roof in place.
Trial fit the electrics and check the lengths of the cables.
Mount the door handle and lock.
Check the action of the Keyboard Shelf and the doors. Install the shelf support and magnetic latches.
Take the desk apart for finishing.
Remove the electrics. Remove the roof. Remove the doors. Remove all the shelves. Remove the front. Remove the sides. Remove the plastic from the signs.
Sand all wood surfaces. Seal any plywood edges you can see. If you are using modern sheet goods, follow the manufacturers finishing directions.
You may finish your desk any way you like. Or, more exactly to match one of the various TARDIS looks that have appeared on the series. In all cases the outside of the box is some shade of blue.
The exterior of the box is painted with blue enamel but may be aged in a number of ways. Sometimes the window have a different colour.
The interior the box should be a light color such as tan or off white. This will help provide diffuse lighting for actual computer work.
All that is left is to reassemble the desk, install the electrics, and attach the posters to the doors.
If you think that you might need to move, or ship, the desk in the future then screw but do not glue the following joints:
Reinstall the electrical boxes using screws through the plywood rectangles you added earlier. Add tie wrap anchors wherever you need the cable tied down. Screw the plywood rectangle with the power strip up under the keyboard shelf.
Plug in the system and check to see that all the lamps and outlets work. Check the dimmer action.
Thanks again for using a Woodware Computer Furniture Plans. We very much want to know how you are getting along with your project and would be happy to answer any questions by email.
If you send us a picture of your finished desk, we would be happy to put it on our web page. We need pictures of desk with real people standing beside them.
Don't forget to order the sketches.
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