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Armoire Pocket door desk 1 Wardrobe desk 1 Wardrobe desk 2
Wardrobe with Pocket Doors by Frank Gingrich

copyright 2001

The Pocket Door Armoire

The Woodware Armoire Computer Desk is a large cabinet enclosing a computer desk. The doors can be closed completely hiding the computer and, when open, slide into side pockets. A built-in keyboard tray pulls out for ease of use.

An armoire (sounds like: arm-war) is simply a French word for arms cabinet. They are usually large closet-like pieces with two tall doors now used to hold clothes. Many examples are very formal and ornate, but some American versions have simple, clean lines.

Recently the armoire has been adapted to hold televisions and other electronic equipment either in the living room or bedroom. These usually feature doors to hide the equipment when not in use. The armoires can be as big and solid as needed yet still be consistent with the earlier styles.

The Woodware Armoire goes a little beyond this to provide everything needed for a roomy, low-stress computer desk. And it does hide everything away when not in use, even the printer.

The exterior can be either in light or dark wood. The lines can be left simple or ornamentation can be added. You are free to suit your own tastes. You can even add an interior light.

You can build the Woodware Armoire with the equipment found in most home woodworking shops. Although it is large, it is simple to construct, and it even comes apart into two sections for ease in transporting. It is sized to just go though interior door ways.

If you are a person who wants to neatly store your computer away, then this is the desk especially for you. The cost of the materials is about $720.00. It is 50.5 inches wide, 27.5 inches deep, and 72 inches tall. It requires no additional floor space to open the doors and the inside depth is 25.5 inches.

The two photos above show a beautiful construction of this desk by Frank Gingrich of Virginia. It is a gift for his daughter.

Armoire Pocket desk 2
Armoire Pocket desk 3

This version uses home-build hardware for the pocket doors costing about $100 total. You may prefer to use commercial pocket door hardware. Such hardware is more reliable, stays in adjustment better, and is more robust. However, it cost about $280. If you would prefer this type of hardware please drop us an e-mail and I will work with you to adjust the plans to your hardware at no extra cost.

  1. Pictures of our Projects

    Pictures of this and most of our other projects can be seen in our Picture Gallery.

  2. Ordering the Sketches

    This design includes fifteen detailed sketches that are critical to your successfully building this desk. Here is where to get all the ordering information.

    Woodware Designs, Woodware@woodwaredesigns.com

    The plans for our major projects are brought to you on the Honor Plan. You may look at as many plans as you like, but when you start to build please pay for the plans you use. These small payments are critical to keeping this Web Site open.

  3. Desk Construction

    You can make this desk by:

    1. Downloading this text.
    2. Ordering the Sketches.
    3. Study this information and locate the materials.
    4. Decide on the options you wish to build.
    5. Select panel technique.
    6. Purchase local materials.
    7. Have the plywood cut.
    8. Assemble all panels
    9. Build back, base, and top.
    10. Assemble desk
    11. Finish all pieces
    12. Reassemble
    13. Install the computer.
  4. Discussion of Sketches

    After you download the sketches, these notes will help you understand them more completely.

    1. Armoire Desk, Front View

      The front view shows the doors closed. Note that the cabinet is deep enough for even a large monitor. Also the computer sits in the base in the tower configuration but set an angle.

      These sketches show ornate hardware. You can choose simpler, antiqued hardware if you like.

      A design is shows cut into the doors. This can be done with hand carving tools or a router with pattern jigs. The cut-in can be colored with artist's acrylic paint. Your can also purchase pre-made veneer inlays and carefully let them into the panels.

    2. Armoire Computer Desk, Sketch #2, Open

      This sketch is very like Sketch #1 except that the doors are open and the keyboard tray is extended.

      Notice how the door slide into side pockets. This means the Armoire can sit right beside other furniture. The shelves in the top section may be adjusted up or down to suit your equipment. The legs leave an open space in the center for your shoe toes.

      The armoire comes apart just above the keyboard shelf. Removing a few screws allows you to take the unit apart for moving. The crown on the top is also easily removed.

    3. Armoire Computer Desk, Sketch #3, Top Views

      This sketch shows three top views. The fine dotted lines represent the edges of pieces that are hidden behind solid parts.

      1. The 1 Upper Section, Top Removed is the upper section without the top or lower section. Note the space between the back of the shelves and the back. This allows the easy run of connectors and cables.
      2. The 2 Lower Section, Upper Section Removed looks down on the keyboard shelf with is heavy duty drawer slide hardware. The keyboard shelf has two small strips screwed to it to prevent the keyboard from sliding off.
      3. The 3 Base Only shows the 3/4-inch plywood base with its hardwood trim. The legs are attached below and the two large holes are for cables. The plywood is sized to allow the top and bottom pieces to be cut from one standard piece of plywood with an allowance for the saw cut.
    4. Armoire Computer Desk, Sketch #4, Top with Crown

      The top is a piece of 3/4-inch plywood with hardwood trim just like the base. The crown is build up from a piece of crown molding, hardwood trim strips, and pieces of secondary wood. Good wood is used only where it will be seen.

      The assembly is attached to the top with a few screw blocks so that it can be removed. The armoire is simply too big to go through some door openings with the crown in place. The 'L' brackets strengthen the Armoire joints when the crown is off the Armoire.

      The exact size of the crown pieces will depend on the crown molding you select. The crown molding can be painted a nice accent color.

    5. Armoire Computer Desk, Sketch #5, Panels

      This armoire is made from eight classic stile and rail panels. Each panel has a frame of hardwood and a loose insert of thin hardwood veneer plywood. This sketch shows the four types of panels.

      The Lower Door is identical with the upper door except for its height. The doors are slightly shorter than their matching side panels. The optional thin edge strips may be attached to the inside of one door to block the crack.

      The Upper Side is basically the same as the door. It is slightly taller and significantly wider. The dimensions shown allow 1/8 inch space at the top and bottom of the doors. This is a loose fit. If you want a tighter fit you may reduce the height of the side panels slightly. The Lower Side is similar to the upper side except for height.

      For the home-made pocket door mechanism (Sketch #14), the hinges mound flat on the inside of the door panels. They are let-in to the styles. The commercial pocket door hardware includes its own special hinges that must be let into the door.

    6. Armoire Computer Desk, Sketch #6, Joint Options

      The joints at the four Armoires of each panel are the keys to the entire construction. There are many ways to make a good stile-and-rail joint. Each takes its own tools and skills. This sketch shows four different joints that you could use. I am sure you can do a good job on at least one of them.

      1. The 1 Matched Router Bits joint requires a matched set of router bits and a router table. One bit cuts a fancy channel for the insert and the other cuts a matching shape in the rail end. These cuts match so well that nothing else is needed but a good glue. If you have this equipment, you will want to use this joint.
      2. The 2 Mortise and Tenon is a classic. The rest of the sketches show this joint. The rails have short extensions (tenon) that fit into holes in the stiles (mortise). Be sure that the mortise is a little deeper than the tenon is long.

        The tenons are easy to cut on a table or radial arm saw. Note the small step to fill in the outer part of the insert channel. The mortise holes are a little more difficult. You may be able to get access to a special drill stand that does just this one job. You will need a 1/4-inch square bit.

        You can cut the mortises with a special chisel. These are now available from woodworker's mail order houses for about $12.00. You will need the 1/4-inch size. Be sure to leave the stiles two or more inches long so that you can cut away from the weak end. You can trim them later.

        This is the type of joint you will want if you want to make a classic armoire.

      3. The 3 Half Lap joint has both the rail and stile extended the full length of the frame. Each is then cut half away with a dado blade and the two halves overlapped. They can then be secured with small screws or brads. If the arm saw is your favorite tool, you may like this joint.
      4. The 4 'L' Bracket Let-In is the simplest to make. It has a very short over lap cut with a radial or table saw and a metal bracket. This is a very simple joint and requires no special tools.

        You must let-in the 'L' brackets into the wood. This is quite easy with a knife and a sharp chisel. During glue-up, place the brackets exactly where you want them but screwed to the surface. After the glue is set, carefully outline the bracket with a knife (utility knives work well). Remove the bracket. Run the knife over the first cuts again then slop the knife in from the waste side for a third cut. This will leave a 'V' shaped channel with a straight edge on the good wood side. Then simply remove the waste wood to the depth of the bracket and replace the bracket.

    7. Armoire Computer Desk, Sketch #7, Stiles

      This sketch shows all the stiles or up-and-down pieces. All the material is 2.25 x .75 inch hardwood. The door stiles are a bit shorter than the side stiles. All are shown cut for a mortise and tenon joint.

    8. Armoire Computer Desk, Sketch #8, Rails

      This sketch shows the rails and all other cross pieces. There are only two types of rails, door and side. Only the critical inside dimension is given. Some extra length will be needed for the joints but the amount depends on the joint you choose.

      The side trim is also the top of one pocket and the bottom of the other. It is cut from hardwood with a short L at one end. A small biscuit would work well for this joint. This assembly is screwed to both the lower pocket door side and the side panel.

      The Cross pieces tie the two sides of the door opening together. One goes at the bottom, one just under the keyboard shelf, and one at the top. One edge should be well rounded. They are attached to the side stiles with screw blocks that are a little wider than the cross pieces. Their screws will not show.

    9. Armoire Computer Desk, Sketch #9, Inserts

      This sketch shows the panel inserts. They may be made for 1/4-inch plywood with a hardwood veneer. The eight inserts could be cut from six 24 x 48 inch pieces.

    10. Armoire Computer Desk, Sketch #10, Back

      This sketch shows the 3/4-inch fur plywood back. The joint piece can also be made from plywood. The two screw blocks should be secondary wood. Avoid painting the glue areas.

    11. Armoire Computer Desk, Sketch #11, Shelves

      Sketch #11 shows the two types of shelves. The two top shelves are made from 3/4-inch fur plywood with a hardwood strip on the front and back. The mounting board are screwed to the ends after the shelf is fit checked in the assembled cabinet. The small rail at the back keeps things from being pushed off.

      You can adjust the width of the shelves to suit your equipment. Leave room at the back to pass the cables.

      The keyboard shelf is made from solid hardwood. The two small strips keep the keyboard from sliding off when the shelf is moved. The ends of the shelf are cut away for the slide hardware and a small block is added to the bottom. Do not cut this shelf to its final length until the cabinet is assembled and you can fit-check the shelf with its hardware. You can make this shelf as wide as you like.

    12. Armoire Computer Desk, Sketch #12, Feet

      This sketch shows the feet pieces and assembly. The exact shape of the foot is up to you. Make it look nice but keep the center clear for the user's feet. The back legs can be simple blocks with a simple butt joint.

      The front two leg pieces may be kicked by the user, so make them strong. If the desk is to be used by a tall person, you may want to increase the height of the legs by 1/2 or even 1-inch.

    13. Armoire Computer Desk, Sketch #13, Plywood Layout

      Three pieces of 3/4 inch fur plywood are needed. The first cut for each pieces is shown. Having this cut made a the store makes the plywood much easer to get home.

    14. Armoire Computer Desk, Sketch #14, Pocket Door

      You can either purchase pocket door hardware from a mail order house or make it from hardware available locally. This sketch shows a cable mechanism made from locally available materials.

      The mechanism is the same as the one used for years for the parallel rule on drafting boards. Two cable run over ball bearing wheel trolleys. The cable start at the front, cross over top-to-bottom (or bottom-to-top), and are secured at the back.

      The wheels are replacement hardware for sliding glass doors. The cables are the type used for bicycle brakes. The larger cables sold at Home Depot work but are harder to pull tight. The cables are secured to the wood with screws and washers.

      The door is hinged to a moving board. It is held upright by the cables and guided by wooden strips and the side panel frame. Some custom fitting may be required.

      The Trolleys are made from a pair of wheels, two 3-inch 'T' brackets, and a block of fill wood. They are held in place with three wood screws. The nuts for the wheel bolts must be secured with Lock Tight.

      Because the cable would cut into even oak, it must pass over smooth metal where it enters the wood frame. On the front, the bodies of large wood screws are used. On the back, pieces of 10 penny nails are used.

    15. Armoire Computer Desk, Sketch #15, Pocket Door, Wood Parts

      The inside panels are cut from 3/4-inch plywood and have a front board of hardwood. These must be securely attached. Biscuits will work well. You may need to remove some material from the front board to allow the hinges to pass. The front board shown allows 3/4-inch for the pocket door hardware. This is correct for most commercial hardware too.

      The Moving Board can be made from hardwood or from plywood with strips of hardwood on each side. The Upper Inside Panels have as hole pattern to mount the shelves. Pre-drill the holes makes adjusting the shelves easy.

      The stop blocks mount on the moving boards and stop them from coming too far out. You may want additional blocks on the panels to stop the doors from going too far in. You do not want the door hardware to hit the side panel edge.

    Rockler order link to first page
  5. Materials

    The Armoire is made of hardwood panels made of rails and styles with inserts of thin hardwood-laminate plywood. The rest of the exterior is made of the same hardwood.

    The back, interior panels, and shelves are made of 3/4-inch plywood with matching hardwood trim. The parts are assembled with glue, wood screws, and finishing nails.

    A classical armoire would be done in a rich hardwood like walnut or mahogany or even an exotic tropical wood like rosewood. These woods would require fancy fixtures in antiqued brass. The cost of the material will be high but the value of the finished piece will be even higher.

    An American version can legitimately be built in less showy woods (then called a wardrobe). These woods include oak, ash, hickory, and even pine. A few small, tight knots add interest but you cannot cut the rails and stiles from knotty wood. This style should have steel or iron hardware preferably antiqued (see The Campaign Desk).

    The cost estimate below is for red oak with fancy hardware but no lamp. You could do an American version for a hundred dollars less or an exotic version for hundreds more.

    Hardwood Plywood

    Hardwood Boards:

    ------------- Subtotal: ------------- $76.00

    Omissions and Contingencies (~15%) _________ $84.50

    ----- (Tax, sand paper, etc.)

    ______________Estimated Total Cost _________ $720.00

    This is only an estimate (made in the winter of 1997). The price may vary in your area. Getting a good price on the hardwood and hardwood veneer plywood is critical to keeping the price down.

    The prototype shown on our Web page was done in pine and the materials cost just under $500.

    You can choose plain hardware and even antique plain pieces yourself. Adding a pair of lamps for the top would be a really nice touch.

    Rockler order link to first page
  6. Fabrication Notes

    This section is not intended to be a detailed step-by-step construction guide but rather a number of points to consider. It is your desk and you can build it to suit your likes and needs.

    1. Options

      Before starting work, look over the following options and decide what you want to do for your desk:

      • Pocket Door Hardware -- This version uses home-build hardware for the pocket doors costing about $100 total. You may prefer to use commercial pocket door hardware. Such hardware is more reliable, stays in adjustment better, and is more robust. It however cost about $280. If you would prefer this type of hardware please drop us an e-mail and I will work with you to adjust the plans to your hardware at no extra cost.
      • Panel Construction -- Choose the type of panel and joints you want to make. Do some trials before you make your final selection.
    2. Rails and Stiles

      The rails and stiles are the keys to this project. You can make them as simple boards with a channel cut with a table saw or make you can make fancy ones, if you have the tools.

      Rail and Stile panels have been a mainstay of cabinet making for many years. There is a large selection of tools specifically for this purpose. You can use (1) a table or radial arm saw with a dado cutter, (2) a special pair of router blades and a router table, or (3) antique speciality planes. Use what you have.

      Sketch #6 shows four possible joints. Choose the one that suits your tools and skills. Some of the joint styles require extra length for the rail pieces.

      The first sketch show an ornamental carving on the top doors. Any ornamental work is best done before the panels are assembled.

      The channel should be a loose fit to your insert material and have a little extra depth. In the finished panel the insert should be able to move slightly as the frame expands and contracts. This makes the difference between a five year joint and a seventy-five year joint.

    3. Inserts

      The inserts shown are made of thin plywood. Classically, these inserts would be made of thin hardwood. This requires the tools to cut hardwood into thin boards (resaw) and to resurface the planks. You then edge glue the planks and thin the panel edge all around. If you have these tools available, you will want to consider this approach. It is worth some extra time and money.

      Sketch #1 shows a pattern cut into the upper door panels. This can be done with hand carving tools or a router. The plywood glue dulls the chisel quickly so you will need to touch it up often. You can buy pattern guides for a router to produce a very nice result. Either way, the incise pattern can be colored with artist's acrylics and sanded smooth. This is easy and produce a very nice effect.

      You can add a decorative veneer inlay to the door panels. These inlays are available at reasonable prices from mail order houses as one piece glued to a backing. You simply tape the inlay to the panel and very carefully go around it with a sharp knife. You set the inlay aside and rescore the knife line more deeply. Then make a third pass with the knife, cutting a grove out of the veneer you wish to remove. You then carefully cut away the waste wood with a sharp chisel. You then glue the inlay in the recess.

      Practice the decorative procedure on scrap plywood first.

    4. Panel Assembly

      You may want to make the rails and stiles up with sharp inside edges, assemble the frames dry without the inserts, and round off the inside edges. The round off can be done with a router or by hand. This produces a dressed edge and tight, closed joints.

      On assembly be sure that the joints are tight, the frame is square, and that the insert is not glued in place.

      Fit the doors to the Moving Boards. The hinges are mounted flat on the inside and let into both the door and the Moving Board.

    5. Base and Top

      The base and top are pieces of 3/4-inch plywood with strips of hardwood around three sides. The hardwood strips are best attached with biscuits but you may use a wooden spline or just nails and glue. If you use nails, be sure to predrill the holes.

      The base gets the feet on its underside and the top gets the removable crown on its top.

    6. First Assembly

      Assemble the backs, bottom, top, inside panels, and cross braces. This will require most of the long screw blocks and the three tie strips. You may remove the crown and feet to protect them.

    7. Doors Mechanism

      You can buy commercial pocket door hardware or make your own.

      1. Commercial Hardware

        The simplest approach is to buy medium-duty hardware for pocket doors. This is available by from woodworkers mail order catalogs. This hardware is expensive and the hinges are modern in appearance. The 3/4-inch deep area designed for the door mechanism will fit most of this hardware without modification.

      2. Homemade Mechanism

        Sketch #14 shows details of a smooth, robust pocket door mechanism that can be made from components available locally in most areas. It is based on the system used for parallel straight edges on drawing board and holds a moving board upright. This mechanism is however complicated enough that you make wish to build a working model before committing to it.

        The hardware consists of two trolleys with ball bearing wheels, a moving board, and two cables. One cable starts at the top front, runs over the top front pulley, drops down and across the moving board, over a bottom pulley, and attaches a the back. The second cable is a mirror image of the first.

        The trolleys are made from a pair of ball bearing wheels intended for use in sliding patio doors, two 3-inch 'T' plates, and a block of wood. File two holes in one 'T' plate to fit the square head of the wheel bolts. Fix the wheel nuts with Lock Tite or other cement.

        The best cables are those used for bicycle breaks. The breaded wire used to hang pictures will do if waxed.

        The cable are anchored to the wood with #10 pan-head screws and two washers. The cable is wrapped around the screw between the washers. Since will cut into wood, so it must be bent over metal. In the front this is done with the body of a large screw. In the back, it is done with a section of large nail.

        Wood strips at the top and bottom of the inside panels serve as guides for the Moving Board. The front piece anchors the cables and hides the mechanism. It must be firmly attached to the inside panel with biscuits or screws.

        To run the cables, assemble the Armoire without the side panels, doors, or keyboard shelf. Start by anchoring both at the front. Remove the doors from the Moving Board but leave the hinges on the Moving Boards. Install the trolleys and run the cables through the trolleys crossing them in the middle. Feed the cables through the back holes and pull them tight.

        The cable anchors are shown in shallow holes to hide them from view. You cover they with paper if you like.

        This assembly does a good job of preventing the door from tilting down at its front. It does not prevent it from moving straight down or side to side. These motions are controlled by drawer glides sliding against wood. Nylon glides with nails in their center work well. You use nickel plated steal guides instead.

        On the prototype we added small wedges of burnished maple at the front edge of the pocket. These prevented the moving board from rocking side-to-side when it is in the most forward position. As the doors are pulled fully out, the wedges meet, forcing the door bottoms inward and eliminating the door sag.

        The hardwood runners that the guides slide on can be hardened by burnishing the wood. This is done is done by rubbing the wood with a hard piece of steel or bone. The parts from a mechanics socket wrench set work well. Baseball players often 'bone' a bat to harden its surface. These surfaces are usually left unfinished.

    8. Doors and Side Panels

      When you have the pocket door mechanism running smoothly, remount a door and install its side panel. The doors can be reinstalled on their hinges with the Moving Boards pushed all the way forward.

      The side panel is attached with screws from the top, bottom, and back. Do not glue the side panels as it may be necessary to remove one to replace a cable in the future. The back screws can be angled in from the back so that they do not show from the side. You cannot screw up into the bottom of the top panels, so a wooden dowel is shown for the front bottom Armoire.

      Again check the running of the door mechanism. Make any adjustments need to get a free running door.

    9. Keyboard shelf

      The keyboard shelf should be made of several boards edged together rather than one board. You can make the keyboard shelf as wide as you like. You should wait to trim it to length until the cabinet is assembled and the drawer guide hardware is installed.

      The guide hardware will require notches in the end of the shelf and end blocks for the hardware. The exact measurements will depend on your drawer guide. You will need a heavy-duty drawer guide pair with steel ball bearings and very few plastic parts.

      The sketches show very thin strips of hardwood running along the front and back of the keyboard shelf. These keep the keyboard from sliding around and provide a block for the bottom of the door. These can be held in place with brads or screws. The back one should be placed for your particular keyboard, should not be glued, and need not be full width.

      The slide hardware comes with about six screws per side. Install these in the slotted holes. When you have the keyboard shelf running straight and true, install another 12 screws in round holes.

    10. Shelves

      The shelves are pieces of 3/4-inch plywood with a hardwood wood strip on the front and a stop block at the rear. The hardwood strips add strength as well as decoration.

      The shelves are attached to the inner panels with four round-head screws with washers on each end. These panels should be pre-drilled with two lines of holes on 1-inch centers.

    11. Crown

      The crown is made up of pieces of molding, strips of good wood, and pieces of secondary wood. You can use strips of the plywood for secondary wood. The exact dimensions will depend on the molding you choose.

      You may build up a fancy molding out of several smaller ones. If you cannot get or make the molding match your hardwood, you can paint clear pine molding. The molding can be a striking color accent.

      You may find it easer to assemble the crown in one long piece and miter the whole thing into three pieces. Be careful not to put fasteners in the wrong place.

      The entire crown may have to be removed to move the armoire through a door way. It is attached to the top with a few screw blocks and no glue. 'L' brackets are also shown to strengthen it when it is off.

    12. Mount Hardware

      Fit the latches, door pulls, and hooks. A wide selection this hardware is available from mail order houses.

    13. Disassemble

      Remove the hardware and bag it. As you remove the wooden parts, mark the glue areas. Label all the parts in pencil on hidden areas. Give the location and the direction of the front.

      Sand all parts. Move power sanders very slowly so that they erase their own swirl marks.

    Rockler order link to first page
  7. Finishing

    You may finish your desk any way you like. We recommend:

    1. Hardwood -- Oil stain, a spit coat of shellac, and many coats of tung oil finish.
    2. Color -- A sealer and oil-based paint for the interior, crown, and front edges of the Moving Boards.
    3. Carving -- Artist acrylic in incise carving, sand smooth, then finish with the other hardwood.

    You finish the panels, inside and out, before final assembly. Mask off the few areas that will be glued on reassembly.

    1. Staining

      Work with the stain color that you have chosen. Practice on a piece of scrap wood (solid and plywood). Do not start on the panels until you are satisfied. Do not hesitate to write off an $8 can of stain and go purchase another of a different color.

      The outside of the back plywood needs a simple stain and sealer treatment.

    2. Spit Coat

      A spit coat made of one part 3-pound shellac to five parts shellac thinner makes a good wood sealer.

      If the plywood inserts and the hardwood take the stain differently, you can apply a spit coat to only the one that stains darkest (usually the plywood). This will limit the stain penetration to more closely match the finishes. This also works for end grain.

      A spit coat can also be used between applications of stain and as a general sealer after staining.

    3. Exterior Finish

      We like a modern tung oil finish such as:

      ___________ Formby's Tung Oil Finish

      These are applied with a cloth pad rather than a brush. This desk will take at least two 16 oz. bottles; three will be better. Follow the instructions on the bottle carefully and apply a liberal number of applications on all work areas. The toughest finish is needed on the keyboard shelf directly in front of the user.

    4. Interior Paint

      The user needs to face a bright, but non-glare, color around the monitor. Painting the interior adds enormously to the enjoyment of this piece. The color can be off-white, or light gray, or even a robin's egg blue. Something restful to the eyes is best.

      The interior should be sealed and painted. You may need two color coats. The front edges of the upper shelves should be taped off and finished like the exterior hardwood. The entire keyboard shelf is easily removed and finished like the exterior.

  8. Completion

    All that is left is to reassemble the desk and install the cables.

    1. Reassembly

      Do not glue the top and bottom sections together. Also do not glue on the crown.

    2. Cabling

      Instructions for making a remote switched power outlet, and cable tie mounts are on our Web Site. Make up a good number of cable tie mounts and be ready with mounting screws and tie wraps. The remote power switch is optional but is really needed with this large desk.

      Determine which bottom hole will be closest to the wall outlet. Screw the remote switch box and surge suppressor to the inside back close to that leg cable hole. Route the switch cable up to the monitor shelf.

      Install a generous number of cable tie mounts to the back where cables will run. You may also need some at the back of the two upper shelves.

      Place each piece of the computer in the Armoire one at a time. Route and connect the cables. Dress the cables neatly up to the back using tie wraps. Do not pull the tie wraps too tightly. The cable should be able to slide back-and-forth a little. Trim off all the tie wrap ends.

      You may need a cable tie mount at the back of the keyboard shelf where the cable comes out of the keyboard. Route the mouse cable over to the same mount and secure them together. Place a matching mount on the back directly behind this one.

Rockler order link to first page

Conclusion

Thanks again for using a Woodware Designs Computer Furniture Plans. We very much want to know how you are getting along with your project and would be happy to answer any questions by e-mail.

If you send us a picture of your finished desk, we would be happy to put it on our Web Site. We need pictures of desk with real people standing beside them.

Don't forget to order the sketches.

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